EAST. Should you find yourself craving fresh vegetables and lemongrass-scented dishes that recall Far Eastern culinary traditions, this intimate place is well-equipped to sate the desire. Madison's first Thai restaurant (and still its most popular by far), Bahn Thai is the city's best destination for Thai food aficionados. The menu features plenty of options, from tasty curries to a classic pad Thai that still draws raves, even after some 20 years.

EAST. Named for a prominent city on the island of Java, this Indonesian restaurant breathes life into Madison's dining scene. The family-run place, adorned with artwork and artifacts, promises a culinary adventure, thanks to its homemade dishes. Marinated chicken, grilled lamb, fried catfish, and tender shrimp pair with fresh herbs, vegetables, and seductive sauces in irresistible combinations. Bandung also hosts a "rijsttafel," the elaborate feast where rice is the backdrop for 10 meat- and vegetable-based accompaniments. The meal includes authentic music and dancing and requires advance booking. Reservations recommended, especially on weekends. 10-item rijsttafel $25.

EAST. Yes, it's small, and yes, you may have to wait briefly to be seated, but these are small inconveniences to brook for the superb Laotian cuisine at this family-operated place. Folks flock to Lao Laan-Xang for incredible curries, noodle dishes, and lots of other, more exotic entrees. Impeccable ingredients and a masterful culinary hand produce flavorful, spicy items as authentic and good as you could hope for. Seafood and poultry are common, and soups laced with coconut milk, chilis, and cilantro are delicious as well.

WEST. Bathed in pale colors, this casual Thai restaurant draws in crowds of locals throughout the week. The extensive menu provides plenty of options, so whether you want something based on chicken, seafood, tofu, noodles, or just vegetables, you're certain to be satisfied. Red, yellow, and green curries not only prove tasty but are healthy as well, and vegetarian dishes aren't hard to come by either. A range of house specialties also allow the kitchen to demonstrate its skill.

STATE STREET. This popular Japanese restaurant accommodates folks seeking both the dramatic and the understated. The first group clamors around hibachi grills, watching animated chefs chop and saute, while the second opts for a parade of delicate sushi rolls, fashioned of seasoned rice, crisp vegetables, and sweet, mild seafood. If that's not enough, tempura dishes can also be enjoyed among the clean-lined furnishings. Good for singles, groups, or families.